Blog for: Robert MacDonald

19/09/2009

Dear Readers,

The blog is now at http://amrusob.blogspot.com American Russia Observations, where you can read the entries since February 23.

I want to thank John at Contactexpats for his encourage when the blog was just getting started.  We still link to Contactexpats because it has a very good concept that can be useful for expats.

23/02/2009

Expat Cooking... MacDonald`s Midnight Sandwich

 My wife is a wonderful cook. But with each year I long more for the American and Scottish food of my youth, as well as that cooked by expatriates in the States.

Larissa told me at breakfast that making a midnight sandwich is unheard of in Russia. I bet, though, that a lot of expat Americans everywhere enjoy putting together something scrumptious in the wee hours of the morning! This activity is very soothing and often leads to sleep... but only if you are careful not to make a heavy sandwich... which will keep your stomach awake, and you too!

Use the best ingredients and sharpen your paring knife. I load the kitchen table with all that I`ll need from the cabinet and refrigerator.

Bread................. strong dark or rye
Sour cream......... skip salty mayonnaise
Tomato.............. or a bell pepper, for flavor and color!
Onion................. red is best
Cheese................. Russian or import
Mustard.............. I love strong sharp flavors!
Lettuce................ anything but iceburg

Sit at the table with a large work plate or cutting board, a small plate on which to build your sandwich and something for scraps.

Slather sour cream on your foundation slice of bread
Slice some of the tomato and onion very thin... actually shave off pieces
Thin slice the cheese, cover with mustard and put it face down
Use lettuce as a topping to hold everything together
If you add a second piece of bread, cover the inside with more sour cream
Cut in two

I try to make sandwiches with not too much protein and fat... but with lots of the flavors of tasty vegetables, cheese, and mustard. Even if you are frugal, don`t buy cheap vinegar, olive oil, and mustard but be generous, especially to yourself in small things!

So, don`t just long for recipes of your past. Make them now! Expat Cooking can be a great way to feel good about some of your memories, and better about being far away in time and space from your home country.

17/02/2009

THINK about the many times in your life checks have been involved... than try to imagine never ever writing or getting a check! That`s the typical experience in Russia.

Cash is king. In the first few years here we had to travel to the International Moscow Bank on Fontanka to get dollars from New Jersey. Carrying large amounts of cash made me nervous, but was viewed as normal by the people around me.

In December 2000 I returned from surgery in New York City, carrying thousands of dollars, some of which was to pay off a loan owed by a Russian friend in Brooklyn. Going though Pulkovo customs, the guard asked me to show any cash and then to pocket it again. That was enough of an indicator for the thief who ran past me as we walked to the parking lot. Only when we were in our apartment did I realized that one of the envelopes had been swiped. I reimbursed more than half of the loan payment... but lost a friendship as he thought I should have reimbursed 100%.

In 2001 we purchased a second apartment for family. We brought all the money in cash to the closing... a very strange experience for me.

I have seen a gradual increase in the number of Russians who have debit cards. Since around 2005 ATM machines have appeared at banks and shopping centers. We get a good dollars to rubles exchange rate from one in our neighborhood, no longer needing to visit the money changers at kiosks near Pionerskaya metro... which was risky.

The majority still keep their savings at home. Imagine where you would hide cash... and then get more creative! Problem is, sometimes when people die their rubles are never found, except inadvertently by a stranger that now has that picture or furniture or whatever!

We never use our debit cards to pay bills in Russia because I am worried about fraud. We pay bills with cash at Sherbank, the post office, or use one of the recently introduced cash payment machines. These machines charge an extra 5% for the convenience of paying bills when at the supermarket. You scan in your rubles and indicate the amount of the bill. You can save this 5% by travelling to a special payment office such as Intel has, the internet cable company.

Cash has its risks, not just because of theft. In Russia small stores expect you to have cash ready close to what you have to pay. Otherwise, it isn`t uncommon to be refused a purchase with a blank or negative look, and out the door you go... sheepishly! Forget about the value of long term customers, the profit motive, or casual pleasantness.

No checking makes Russia a difficult place to do transactions. Paying bills can use a lot of time and effort that just isn`t experienced in Western countries. It`s an impediment that`s helpful to understand before you arrive in St. Petersburg!

10/02/2009

Today was an unusually sunny clear day, little wind, and -5 C.  We got up a little after 8, had a breakfast of oatmeal, toast with Finnish cheese, and a few cups of English Breakfast tea.  Today we were off to town!  We knew that in many places it`s a sheet of ice, so I wore my heavy batinky... boots... to better navigate the slippery sections.  

My wife is the Russian Conversation Group coordinator and native speaker for the International Womans Club.  She is ideal for this activity as she struggled to learn English in America and has helped me fight the good fight to learn Russian.  We went to the Center together as I was headed to the English literature library for the first time since last spring, while she was meeting her group.

From the metro we walked on Nevsky Prospect to the Fontanka river, where the horse statues mark the Anichkov Bridge.  I spent the next few hours happily looking at books and selected five.  I  forgot that once a year they require members to produce their passport to verify permanent residence. That`s when knowing some Russian really helped!  They deferred the requirement until I return the books.  Ah, flexibility!

Around 2 we met at Cafe Teremok, known for its traditional Russian food.  We ordered bline, very thin plate size items, with a filling of your choice.  Mine had a white sauce, parsley, and thin sliced chicken.  It was so delicious I ordered a second! 

 I neither saw nor heard tourists on Nevsky today nor saw any English tour signs. It seems that there are few travellers visiting the city.  Still, I found being part of the crowd invigorating!

05/02/2009

People here keep a poker face on the street, will not take the initiative to chat with or help unknown pedestrians, and feel it`s OK to yell at customers.  Why?  My theory on this perceived rudeness goes back to religion. 

Most Russians attend just a few, if any, church services a year.  They have no history of growing up an active Jew or Christian as communism discouraged religion.  The Orthodox Church is now established as the traditional faith, gets on the news just about every night... but its moral instruction hasn`t taken hold.

Few people here know the stories of the Good Samaritan, the Prodigal Son, or the Sermon on the Mount . Beyond city center there are few church bells, no moral instruction from Hebrew or Sunday School, no weekly sermons emphasizing how important it is to be actively kind to your family, neighbors, and especially to strangers! I was an active Presbyterian back home, even though I am an agnostic.  It was good to get moral reminders every week and be part of a caring community.

The West has many centuries of Bible centered religion, while here the church is top down.  They are unlikely to recruit parishioners for choir, clubs, church dinners.  It seems they often have no idea who you are and do not care.

If you meet with rudeness in Russia I believe it is because Biblical moral instruction is lacking.  Without this education, the people see their behavior as acceptable.  

31/01/2009

Another month shot to hell! as we New Jersey cynics say.  In truth January has been a cozy winter month for  sleeping late, leisurely breakfasts, supermarket trips, naps, reading, TV, and the computer.

The Mayakovsky Library at 46 Fontanka (southeast of Nevsky) is wonderful!  There is one large room overflowing with English language fiction... enough to last a reader for twenty years.  It even has books translated to English from other languages!  Sometimes books are placed in unlikely shelves so you have to search a bit. 

There is a limit of five books for thirty days... which is good.  They don`t allow you to renew a book by phone.  My wife solves this problem by returning my unfinished books and checking them out on her card.

After the library, I often stop by the two foreign language bookshops  at 38 Fontanka (northeast of Nevsky)... Anglia and Parsons.  I shop and select the least expensive choice.  They both say it takes around six months to get a special order! 

Also there is a used bookstore with English language fiction hidden in a courtyard on the northwest side of Liteny Prospect, just about parallel with the bookshops on Fontanka. There are a few more used bookstores with some foreign selections in unusual locations around the city.

My expat English friend and I lend and swap books, videos and dvd`s.  Once a year the International Womens Club sells used books and media at their Christmas Bazaar.  I feel I am a lucky expat to have all these sources for excellent books in English!  

17/01/2009

I am happy we came to Russia to retire in 2000.  Life is good here or anywhere if you have a positive attitude and focus on the many things you can do, at least within range of an English language library or bookshop and an internet connection! 

But, before I write about the pleasant aspects of life in Russia, I thought you might profit from what I`ve learned about daily life...

CAUTIONS FOR WESTERNERS

Many foreigners come to Russia with the mistaken idea that everything important is pretty much the same as in their countries.  After living in St. Petersburg for the last decade, I can assert the assumption isn`t true.

For instance, you must look very carefully where you walk as Russians just don`t see the need for safety measures you may take for granted.  It`s common to see open manholes, ditches, with little if any tape or arnings.  It`s up to you to protect yourself.  I was at the polyclinic yesterday and noticed the new stairs had a shaky railing and no white marks on the edge of the badly spaced steps.

St. Petersburg is safer than Moscow for pedestrians, which is like saying a gun is safer than a grenade... they can both be plenty dangerous.  You have to be more alert than in New York City.  Russians view traffic regulations as a rough guide to which they can apply their improvisations.  People frequently drive and park on the sidewalks in our neighborhood, and sometimes are irritated by you being in the way when they want to zip down to the supermarket.  From the moment you leave your apartment you must be ready for the unexpected... things left in the darkened halls to stumble on, a chancey elevator, and uncertain steps.  Then the sidewalk and crossing the street.  I look both ways and stare at the oncoming traffic as I cross, `cause I know many cars will cross my path even if I have the green light.

We have extensive public transport... a big advantage over many cities in the US.  My favorite is the tramway which runs on rails in the middle of some of the roads.  You must be extremely alert as car drivers don`t always stop to allow people to get to and off the tramway.  What`s great about the tram is that it`s unaffected by traffic.  Next best in my mind is the trolley, and then the autobus. 

The mashutka is a route van which you can wave down, and sometimes it`s the only way to get to parts of the city.  I hate them because they are 26 rubles now (16 for the others) and you are packed in with lots of potential infection.  At least in the others you can get away from someone who is donating his flu to everybody.  The metro is the quickest, if noisiest way, to get places efficiently.  It feels as safe as the bus and it runs till around midnight. 

So, be extra vigilant when you come to Russia.  Then, I expect you will have a wonderful time!

31/12/2008

Russian New Year is American Thanksgiving and Christmas rolled into one big celebration.  Salutes, that is fireworks, have been going off for a few weeks in random fashion... one a huge boom around 3 am in our courtyard.  The local Season supermarket was packed this morning but the people were in a happy and polite mood.

Families and friends gather for big meals and lots to drink.  Then just before midnight Putin addresses the nation.  2008 was viewed by many Russians with worry because for the superstitious leap years are unlucky.

I consider the true new year starts at the winter solstice.  But the calendar date is a great reason to have a party.  Happy New Year!

30/12/2008

Just about every day we check the ups and downs of the dollar in relation to Russian rubles.  It isn`t so simple anymore, as the major currencies are moving targets, and therefore we are looking at more than one variable.

Now the dollar gets 29 or 30 rubles... but if each ruble is buying much less than before, than 29 rubles to the dollar may be barely keeping up, or may be falling behind in purchasing power. With even the true value of gold hard to determine, how can we do meaningful comparisons?

The scary question is where is a safe monetary haven?  The answer in this crisis is... nowhere.  The dollar may be replaced while the ruble may be devalued.  It may be that dollars and rubles will become close to worthless.  Then what do we do?  With more unemployment it`s reasonable to expect more street crime and break and entries.  Lets hope for some currency stability soon!

22/12/2008

The winter solstice is a good time to look at how decreasing light and colder weather affects people in St. Petersburg.  I`ve been sleeping longer and more soundly... a sort of hibernation.  With less than six hours of light the day flies by.  We have breakfast before sunrise, consisting of oatmeal, toast with cheese, and tea.  I check news on the internet, and then we bundle up for a walk in Udenya Park, shop at Season, and return for abed, the meal Russians have around 2 PM .  This time of year we have dark, twilight, and dark again with rarely any sunshine.  I`m researching if the weather has deteriorated in SPB with the exponential growth of car traffic and increased pollution.  As far as I know there are no exhaust tests on any vehicles.  It seems we are in an area inclined to temperature inversions, a lot of rain and snow, and resulting unhealthy weather.

Russians tell me June 1 marks the beginning of summer and December 1 the beginning of winter.  This is unscientific but reflects how seasons work here.  Our summer on the Volga usually lasts June and July and then with August the water turns colder and we often slide into bad weather.  Natives of "Peter" or Leningrad love the ideal winter of snow on the ground and a steady -5 degrees, which they view as healthy and pretty.  Certainly the air is cleaner after a snowfall and much of the unsightliness is covered until a thaw.

Reading novels and time in the kitchen keep my spirits up, but admittedly this can be a difficult time what with relatives far away and no longer attainable daydreams of Christmas often surfacing.  I tried to buy some holiday music but found none, so thought of internet radio... which has plenty!   I hope any readers of this have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

15/12/2008

We live on the tenth floor of a 1986 apartment building. The topography is typically flat and barren. Unfortunately Russians don`t expect anything outside their apartment to be attractive. The result is grafitti, abandoned savaged cars, and a lot of ugliness. But you can see some plants in an occassional window and other evidence of someone trying to make things better.

Now the USA is experiencing some of the economic insecurity which people here have lived with for years. Americans have been blessed with generally good climates, decent government, and beautiful
scenery. The Civil War was the last large scale war on American soil.

Russians are strong, not easily frightened. and don`t worry much about tomorrow. It appears that it`s much easier to panic Americans about a variety of topics than many other people. I know these are generalizations but they represent some of my observations.

Every day has less light so this can affect mood.

During these short days the best thing is to have a party! Tomorrow is Larissa`s birthday so we spent much of the day in the kitchen, she preparing Russian cold salads and charlodka (apple pie) while I was the captain of the casserole... Overnight Southern Casserole. We put together two, and parked them in the fridge overnight. Tomorrow they will cook for 45 minutes and represent American tasty food.

My Savannah Georgia brotherinlaw initiated contact with Dell Video Chat which is just the thing to perk up this glum time of year. Tomorrow we will introduce my Savannah relatives to those in St. Petersburg, which should be fun, after eight years here.

Enjoy each day where you can and write when the spirit moves you!

25/11/2008

I guess I shouldn't be surprised that no one else is blogging from St. Petersburg. We've been living here since 2000 and I think I am the only American retiree. Although St Pete appears cosmopolitan it's rare to hear an American accent on Nevsky Prospect and we don't have ready access to foreign newspapers as, say, Paris does.

I found the British library on Fontanka within a year but had a lot of trouble finding the English language library, which it turns out is in the same building! Also on Fontanka are two bookstores which cater to English, French, and German speakers. I am contemplating ordering some books from Amazon as I have read through much of the limited selection of classical authors the library and bookstores offer.

Living in Russia is generally a positive experience if you can recognize the good as well as notice the bad. I have had extensive experience with the Russian hospitals and cardiologists. Sometimes the results have been good, sometimes disappointing.

Now the days are getting shorter and darker and colder!

My wife Larissa and I enjoy cooking, with my specialties being American stews, Scottish meatloaf and mince, and Italian dishes. My other great enthusiasms are reading books and the internet, and collecting rough gems from shore stones along the waters of the Volga.

We spend June, July, and August at a little village where my wife's cousin has a farm... wonderful scenery, delicious milk, and tasty vegetables from our garden! We, along with much of St. Pete, anticipate life at the dacha as a balancer to life in a big city.

I plan to concentrate on one topic or experience each week and look forward to any questions you would like to ask.